Displaying items by tag: Paris

In praise of the writer's notebook...

Monday, 18 March 2013 09:58
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I'm addicted to my writer's notebooks. Have been since college. My writer's notebook is where the ideas that matter (to my books and to my life) start percolating.

How I use the notebooks has changed over time. In fact, when I flip through them, I can tell a lot about where I am in the writing process based on my handwriting and how I use the page. Loose script dashed diagonally across the page? Definitely a sudden inspiration, probably jotted down while walking. Tight lists with page numbers? I'm trying to get unstuck by analyzing a novel I admire. Entry that begins, "why do I always forget how hard this is?" Self talk during a first draft. Crazy cartoons and doodles surrounded by quotations? Me, at a reading (probably after a glass of wine)...

Now that I've been doing it for almost 10 years, keeping a writer's notebook is kind of like clicking on the Time Machine function on my Mac. I can see all those different writing Ashleys--and how they led me to my current place. 

I have changed through these notebooks, but the most crucual benefit they offer me hasn't changed. My writer's notebook lets me take my writing anywhere. It turns every park bench, bus seat, or cafe table into a workable writing space. 

Even when I'm working with Scrivener on my Mac, my writer's notebook is open. I move back and forth between the two, using the physical notebook as a safe space to think out an idea (and question it) before or even as I draft a scene.

My notebooks also save my butt via the reading lists I tuck inside them, lists of (with secret notations) every book that I read or listen to. They save my butt because I'm one of those people who blanks when asked their favorite book (I have too many!). Having the lists makes it easier to track down the right recommendations when asked, too.

P.S. Just click on the "writersnotebook" tab for my blog to see bits from many different notebooks. One of my favorite posts is here

Happy Birthday, Monsieur Mono!

Sunday, 29 April 2012 10:57
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Today, our little boy Liam Miguel turns 2. He's traveled a lot of miles in his short life, and he seemed to enjoy his Paris birthday very well. I made his cake, and you'll notice the three languages (English, Spanish, French) there. Yes, he speaks them all a little; he's a very global little fellow! We're enjoying hearing him talk more every day.

Why "Monsieur Mono"? We sometimes call Liam that when he's being a little silly... or just as a term of endearment. He does an excellent monkey impression when he's in the mood.

Liam, thanks for bringing so many new kinds of joy into our lives. Feliz cumpleaños, joyeaux anniversaire, happy birthday!

Two technology-related gripes (A RANT)

Thursday, 12 January 2012 10:39
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I have two complaints to file today. These have been simmering--no, festering--for weeks, and it's time I said something.

(1) Reading on my iPad is NOT, NOT, NOT the f***ing same. Don't get me wrong, as a writer and PhD student in Paris, I don't know what I'd do without my ebooks and pdfs. Cry? Watch my creative stomach consume itself, Twila Tharp-style? But!! I miss holding books. I miss bookmarks. I miss feeling where I am in a book by the number of pages ahead and behind my present location. I miss writing in the margins. I miss flipping through the pages. Yes, a search function felt "handy" at first, but now I just wish I could follow my own mind's map through the physical pages in a physical book. Andrew Karre, those thoughts you had about discreteness? They're not just idle worries. They're the stuff of my current angst. By the way, I'm pretty sure the Andrew of August 18, 2011, did some time travel and read my (now) diary to be able to write this:

I love books for their self-contained universes. I worry about what happens to the discreteness of those universes when there is nothing to prevent me from barging through every thin place, every interdimensional wormhole I encounter. It seems that every step toward pervasive electronic books reveals another way in which paper books are perfect technology.

Me too!! I want paper baaaack!*

(2) The Twitter character limit that used to seem "fun" and "challenging" is currently pissing me off. I know, I know, I even said Twitter could make you a better writer by training you to self-edit. And probably it can. But who f***ing cares when they want to communicate a semi-nuanced thought? I'm sick of feeling like a bad Hemingway imitator. I'm embarrassed by my chronic two-tweet messages. Yes, yes, I know I can enable a "long message" linking feature, but that makes me feel like I have diarrhea of the keys. Or like I've signed up for a modification that I should be good enough not to need. Damn it, why isn't it 200 characters? Just give me that. Can't they base the bulk of a Twitter message on an overweight Paris pigeon instead of that skinny, too-damn-cute chickadee they used to weigh out our characters? Come on, guys...

*No friggin' surprise that Andrew called this one. He's brilliant, like I said here.

What Courage Sounds Like

Tuesday, 03 January 2012 10:19
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To ring in 2012, I offer you this scene: a Paris Metro car full of people on their way home, their facial expressions ranging from impatient to bored. In the middle of us all, a woman with her amplifier strapped to a dolly, sings into a microphone that lets us hear her loud and clear (whether we want to or not) as she croons "Sway" with a very thick French accent.

At first, I found it a bit annoying to have my eardrums accosted by accordionists, singers, and other performers on the Metro when all I wanted was to get home from work and see my boys. But then I began to really pay attention to these performers. Some clearly were doing it just for the money--the handful of change they shamed or pressured travelers into giving them before they finally stepped off the train and went to inflict auditory torture on someone else.  The instrument they carried was basically just an accessory to their panhandling efforts.

Other buskers were different--well dressed and apparently indifferent to whether or not they received donations.  I have a theory (perhaps totally bogus) that these performers see the Metro as a kind of endless open-mike opportunity. They have a captive audience, after all.

But for my shy self, the proportions of their courage boggle the mind. A captive audience, yes, but a very cranky audience determined not to be moved by their music. Is it the challenge that appeals? And has a Metro crowd ever burst out into applause? I'd love to know.

While I have sometimes wanted to pay the Metro performers money to please, please STOP playing, our little boy Liam is a huge fan of all music, no matter how bad. He'll sway to an out-of-tune accordion, elevator music, or even a cellphone ringtone. So I guess--when he's with us--the buskers can count on at least one appreciative member in their captive audience.

And maybe, with enough courage, one real listener is enough to make it worthwhile. That's what I'm trying to remember this new year, knee-deep as I am in scary, rough-drafting for novel #3.

Chocolate Tart in Paris (with Liam as model!)

Thursday, 29 December 2011 10:06
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So far it appears absolutely impossible to go wrong with any recipe by David Lebovitz. But especially when it comes to chocolate, he is an evil genius! What I love best about this chocolate tart recipe is that it only requires ingredients that any sane person already has in her kitchen: sugar, vanilla, butter, coffee, flour, eggs, and a good bar of chocolate. I also made David's French pastry recipe. (It's a lot easier than a rolled pastry crust, but I recommend doubling it and storing half the dough in the fridge for sudden baking needs. I used mine for a quick quiche).

Looking for a simple-but-special holiday treat for your New Year's Eve party? Look no further.

The batter for the tart is delicious--akin to the richest fudge sauce you've ever had. When baked, it becomes denser but is still very smooth, kind of like a very thick pudding. Anyway, the husband approved, as did Liam. I'll let him model the satisfaction since he looks way cuter with chocolate all over his face than I do. (Unfortunately, this is not just a hypothetical comparison: apparently every time I sneak a little Nutella, I manage to smear it across my mouth, which makes it difficult to feign innocence when Arnie asks what I've been snacking on.)

Um, is there a problem here?

More pie, please!

What if I suck in my stomach? See? I really, really need more pie!

No choices: my new favorite way to dine (Les Papilles in Paris)

Thursday, 22 December 2011 10:45
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For Christmas, Arnie and I bought each other a grown-up* dinner at Les Papilles, a well-established French bistro with a reputation for its excellent market-driven menu and wide selection of wines. And I discovered my new favorite way to have dinner out: without choices.

Because at Les Papilles (translates as "the tastebuds") the day's offerings are the same for everyone and based on what's fresh at the market.

Our first course was a gorgeous cream of zucchini soup ladled over seasoned bread cubes, bacon, and an olive cream fraiche dollop. I loved that we had our own giant tureen of soup so that I could have three servings. (Sorry, couldn't find a picture of our soup.)

The next course was beef cheek slow-roasted in red wine with baby potatoes, carrots and thyme. Tasty, even for this former vegetarian!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/donutgirl/1524409412

The cheese course was a blue cheese served with a prune to balance out the saltiness. Delish.

Chez Pim: http://www.flickr.com/photos/chezpim/791139249

Finally, the dessert. Oh, my goodness. I wish I could remember what it was called. (If somebody knows from my description, please tell me!) Carmelized bananas on the bottom, this amazingly mild and smooth creamy stuff above that, and a caramel foam on the top. I wanted to die...

Paris By Mouth: http://www.flickr.com/photos/parisbymouth/4263053517

Another thing I loved was picking out our own wine from the many choices along the wall...

From Paris by Mouth

Not a single disappointment for these satisfied diners. 

*Liam had to sit this one out, but he had a great time with super babysitter Melissa.

What the French Know About Food: Less is More

Thursday, 01 December 2011 10:37
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In Paris, there's a bakery on every corner offering buttery croissants, but residents are still slim enough to fit into elevators the size of coffins. What do the French know? This is the third of several posts on food and lifestyle in the city of lights. Read the first one here and the second one here.

By American standards, the fridge in our Paris apartment is more appropriate for an office cubicle than a family of three. But it's normal by Paris standards, and it reflects a general underlying assumption the French here seem to have about food: less is more.

Let me be clear that I'm not speaking of the cliché of the tiny portions in French restaurants. That may be the case at some five-star joints serving gold-encrusted truffles over a bed of straight saffron. (We wouldn't know; we haven't been anywhere like that for reasons of budget and toddler.)

What you don't find, though, are the mad-cheap, mad-huge portions of a place like IHOP in the U.S. Three pancakes? 7 Euros, thank you. One espresso? 3 Euros, thank you. No such thing as a bottomless cup of coffee.

The French have a much stronger sense of the law of diminishing returns (Economics 101, anyone?) as it applies to food: one cookie may bring you much pleasure. A second cookie may bring you additional pleasure, but never as much as the first cookie. A third cookie may bring pleasure, but it's even less than the second cookie. And so on from there.

The American philosophy? Keep eating cookies as long as there is a trace of pleasure. The French philosophy? Stop after the first cookie and really savor. It will never be that good again if you keep going.

French supermarkets sell packages of eight cookies rather than eighty. Ice cream comes in "family-size" cartons small enough to confuse your average American into thinking it's a single serving. Even spaghetti sauce comes in dainty little jars.

Let me loop back to our fridge. Here's my theory about why a teensy fridge cuts it around here. Parisians don't panic at the idea of "running out" of something, so they don't feel compelled to stock up. They buy what they need for the next few days without worrying about what they might need in the case of a surprise visit from a troop of boyscouts. One consequence, I think, is that there's not an endless supply of sweets and salty treats awaiting consumption on the shelf. There might be a treat or two, but after that, it's game over.

(Until, of course, you pop out and have to walk past all those bread and pastry shops.)

Disaster Preparedness: Chocolate Burns, Ashley Learns

Wednesday, 23 November 2011 09:26
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I like to think of myself as a sensible person. In practice, though, I seem to be guilty of thoughtlessness far more often than I'd like to admit. And sometimes it burns.

Literally.

A couple of weeks ago, after teaching a long day, I came home and decided the time was right for baking. Nevermind that it was after nine, pretty late for starting a new project. Nor that my brain was a bit fuzzy. I wanted to make a cake.

Fast-forward to me stirring a pot of chocolate and butter over an improvised double boiler: two pans nested together, the bottom one filled with simmering water.

In the back of my mind, I knew something was wrong. Vaguely, though. I was using a burner that gets very hot very fast, and I was thinking, "maybe I ought to turn down the fire." About that moment, there was an extremely loud POP! as one of the pans exploded off of the stove. Chocolate and boiling water splattered all over the kitchen. And all over me.

And it scared the shit out of me.

I managed to burn about half of my left arm and hand (all first-degree burns--ugly and painful, but not too serious). Most of all, I was terrified at the thought that Liam could have been playing there while I was cooking.

How do we learn from disasters? A book I read some time ago--The Black Swan: The Impact of the Highly Improbable--suggests that when things go seriously wrong, we often make the mistake of only changing our behavior with regard to the specific causes of the initial (improbable) event. To quote the book description: "We concentrate on things we already know and time and time again fail to take into consideration what we don’t know." 9/11 is a prime example; we've adjusted airport security as a consequence, but instead we should (also) anticipate other, different sorts of threats.

For me, then, the moral of my mess ought not merely to be "DON'T USE TWO POTS THAT ARE TOO SIMILAR IN SIZE FOR YOUR CHEAP-O DOUBLE BOILER." Instead, I need to think: what is it about this situation (whatever it may be) that might be unsafe? Is there anything that could become unsafe? I hope my scar will remind me of this. For more thoughts on scars, cruise back to this post from my archives.

(Needless to say, we have purchased a fire extinguisher for our Paris apartment, and Liam is banned from the kitchen when I'm cooking.)

Sweet Life in Paris: It's sweet, but there are quirks...

Friday, 18 November 2011 10:56
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There are some books that just have to find you at the right moment to be loved. The Sweet Life in Paris is like that, a bit. But I'm pretty sure I would have felt like author David Lebovitz--with his social awkwardness, love for chocolate, and baking passion--was a kindred spirit even if we didn't both live in Paris. Now, though, I have this idea that if we bumped into each other on the streets of Paris, we'd be best buds. Maybe I'll see him some time eating tacos at Candelaria, the one decent Latin-infused spot we've found.

Obviously--for anyone whose been to Lebovitz's awesome website and blog--the recipes are fantastic. They're classy but not snooty or overly complicated. And they all tie into the various stories he shares in some way.

But what I really loved were all the anecdotes about daily life in Paris--complete with all its complications, contradictions, and even annoyances. One cranky reviewer complained that the book is not really about a sweet life at all; Lebovitz makes living in Paris look like hard work. As someone living in Paris, I have to say that it can be hard work--especially at first. Let me add bewildering, too, as you can probably tell from my arrival post and my list of Paris surprises. I found myself giggling and muttering "amens" as Lebovitz described his failures and occasional successes.

Another quick note in response to Lebovitz's few detractors (one called him the updated version of the "Ugly American"). That strikes me as very unfair. One thing I loved about the book is how you could tell that Lebovitz hasn't become a new person living in Paris--he's his old self in a new location. The very idea that it's okay not to be transformed by Paris is a bit of a relief.  Lebovitz left me feeling that it's okay not to blend in 100% and pass for Parisian all the time. That's a relief for me as an adult who will probably never perfect my French accent--or my scarf-tying abilities.

Here's my favorite bit:

The image people have of my life in Paris is that each fabulous day begins with a trip to the bakery for my morning croissant, which I eat while catching up with the current events by reading Le Monde at my corner café. (The beret is optional.) Then I spend the rest of my day discussing Sartre over in the Latin Quarter or strolling the halls of the Louvre with a sketchpad, ending with my sunset ascent of the Eiffel Tower before heading to one of the Michelin three-star restaurants for an extravagant dinner.

Let Arnie and me tell you this together with DL: it is so not like that. Because, really, people, how glamorous do you think our life in Paris is with a toddler? We're having a good time, but it's more sandboxes and baguettes than fancy dishes. Anyway, read The Sweet Life in Paris and imagine things a bit closer to the expat life in the city of lights.

Faking it: Dealing with shyness in the classroom

Wednesday, 16 November 2011 10:17
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Every time I meet a new group of students, I ask them to tell me about themselves. Where are they from? What have their experiences with English or literature been in the past? And what's something most people don't know about them?

These are questions I answer myself, and I always tell my students on the first day this "secret" about myself: most people don't know that I'm actually very shy.

It's important for me to share this with them for a couple of reasons. For one thing, it's not at all obvious. My classroom persona is actually a bit over the top. I'm very smiley, I crack bad jokes, and I address behaviors that don't meet my expectations mostly through humor. If students avoid the front rows, for example, I make a big show of surprise and then explain that I went to extra trouble to bathe and put on deodorant. 

I also think it's important to bring shyness into the conversation because, in every class, there's usually a solid contingent of students who would rather not speak. Ever. Of course, in a language-learning classroom (right now I teach English as a foreign language in Paris) this won't work. Students have to open their mouths, engage, and interact to make any serious growth in their English. So before I ask students to interact with each other, I let them know that it's a challenge for me, too. 

And I tell them it's okay to fake it.

Because that's really the only way I know of dealing with my shyness, and it's been my strategy ever since I began teaching in 2004. I just pretend I'm not shy. I say to myself, what would an outgoing person do right now? And then I do it. Most of the time, it works fine, and I'm sometimes even able to forget that deep down inside I'd infinitely prefer to be tucked safely away in the stacks of a library. 

Also, faking it has its compensations. I always, always learn something from my students, which wouldn't happen if I let them stay silent. And pushing myself in the classroom stretches me and has made me more able to enter social situations that previously would have terrified me.

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